Huascaran Ascent

  • Trip Code

    MKA-1097

  • No of days

    19

  • MEALS

    Included (B,L, D)

  • TRANSPORTATION

    Free pickup & drop.

  • ACCOMMODATION

    Hotel and Lodge

  • MAX ALTITUTE

    -

  • BEST SEASON

    Mar-May | Sep-Nov

  • START POINT

    Kathmandu

  • END POINT

    Kathmandu

  • SUITABLE FOR

    16 to 79 years old

  • WALK PER DAY

    4 to 5 hours walk every day

  • GUIDING METHOD

    Live Guide/Instructor

Trip Overview

Huascarán or Nevado Huascarán is a mountain in the Province of Yungay -Cordillera Blanca, part of the Western Andes. At 6768 m its southern peak (Huascarán Sur) is the highest in Peru and the fourth highest in South America. Huascarán gives its name to Huascarán National Park which surrounds it, and is a popular location for trekking and mountaineering.

The Huascarán summit is in a close tie with Ecuador's Chimborazo for the honor of "farthest point from the earth's center."

Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit.


DETAILED Itinerary

  • Day 1
    Lima

    Arrival in Lima, reception and transfer to your hotel.

  • Day 2
    Lima – Huaraz (Breakfast)

    Transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour bus journey to Huaraz, set in the heart of the Peruvian Andes. Transfer to your hotel.

  • Day 3
    Huaraz (Breakfast)

    Free day.

  • Day 4
    Pastoruri (Breakfast)

    After breakfast, private transport to Pastoruri Glacier. A day of ice climbing skills including crampon techniques and ice axe work. Overnight camp on Pastoruri mountain to facilitate acclimatsation.

  • Day 5
    Huaraz - Cebollapampa Campsite (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    Leaving Huaraz you will head north to the small town of Yungay at the foot of the Quebrada Llanganuco. Entering the Quebrada you will continue heading east into the mountains to the wide and pastoral valley between Huascarán on the south and Huandoy on the north. Camp near the trailhead at Cebollapampa. An easy day to achieve further acclimatisation.

  • Day 6
    Acclimatisation hike to Lagoon 69 (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    Hike today for about 6 hours, surrounded by the mountains of Chacraraju, Yanpaccha and Pisco. Return to Cebollapampa basecamp.

  • Day 7
    Cebollapampa campsite - Moraine Camp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    After breakfast, a short trek to Pisco Base Camp at about 4400m. With good acclimatisation, you will pass the Pisco Base Camp and settle at the Moraine Camp at 4900m. Sleeping at the foot of Pisco's steep South Face in preparation for tomorrow's summit attempt.

  • Day 8
    Morain Camp - Summit - Basecamp - Cebollapampa campsite (Breakfast, lunch & dinner)

    Your summit climb of Pisco follows the occasionally narrow West Ridge. Snow and a little ice leads directly to the top. Pisco is well known for its incredible views, and with strategic view points there will be many opportunites for photographs. The close proximity of the neighbouring peaks of Huandoy and Chacraraju are astonishing. Return to Base Camp. From the Base Camp, continue the hike out to Cebollapampa campsite.

  • Day 9
    Cebollapampa campsite – Huaraz (Breakfast)

    After breakfast, return with private transport to Huaraz.

  • Day 10 - 11
    Huaraz (Breakfast)

    Days of rest and leisure in preparation for the Huascaran summit attempt.

  • Day 12
    Huaraz - Musho – Basecamp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    After breakfast, leave for Huaraz, heading north to the town of Musho, approximately two hours from Huaraz. From Musho you start the hike for about five hours until Huascaran base camp at an elevation of 4400m.

  • Day 13
    Base Camp - Moraine Camp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    Today, as you climb above the Base Camp, the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs. Your next camp, is the Moraine Camp 4900m, located just below the glacier.

  • Day 14
    Morain Camp- Camp I (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    Today you will arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier traversing takes you to camp I on the glacier at 5400m.

  • Day 15
    Camp I - Camp II (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    Climb for about three hours until La Garganta (The Throat), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As you climb through the increasingly broken glacier, you will encounter short sections of technical climbing including an ice ascent of up to 60 degrees inclination. Camp II is at 6000m.

  • Day 16
    Huascarán Summit (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    Very early start at 3.00 am to reach the summit at approximately 11.00 am. Return to camp II.

  • Day 17
    Camp II - Base Camp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

    Descend to Base Camp, which lasts about 6 hours.

  • Day 18
    Base Camp - Musho – Huaraz (Breakfast and dinner)

    Hiking for another three hours until Musho where your private transport will be waiting. Return to Huaraz and a celebratory dinner.

  • Day 19
    Huaraz – Lima (Breakfast)

    After breakfast, transfer to the bus terminal form the bus trip back to Lima and transfer to the airport for your connecting flight home.


 info@makalu-adventure.com
 makaluadventures@gmail.com
 +977-9851037083

Why Choose Makalu Adventure

Makalu Adventure has been trading for over 25 years; is one of the leading trek and expedition agents in Nepal and is used as in-country agent by several international adventure companies. At the helm is Mohan Lamsal (MD) assisted by head trekking guide Tenging Sherpa and head climbing guide Sanu Sherpa. Teni started trekking as a porter aged 14 and has hiked every trail in Nepal, many times! Sanu Sherpa has the distinction of having climbed all 14, 8,000m peaks, twice! Mohan Lamsal is not only MD of Makalu Adventure, he is also the General Secretary of the Nepal Mountaineering Association. You are in safe hands with Makalau Adventure.

Client Reviews

EXCELLENT : (5 / 5.0 ) 2

100% recommend this Package.
Score Breakdown
  • Sean James
    United Kingdom

    Excellent service and a welcome by Makalu Adventure

    I've known and worked with Mohan and Makalu Adventure for nearly 15 years. In that time I've led many treks and high altitude expeditions to Nepal (15 expeditions over 8000m and counting). His company provides an excellent service and a welcome that I look forward to every season. The Thamel Eco Resort is a center of tranquility in Kathmandu and the perfect place to start and finish the Himalayan Adventure. The staffs are now like family and I hope to return for many years with the guarantee of safety and security that he offers in the mountains.
  • Roy Francis
    France

    I have been working as my country-agent for Makalu Adventure since last 20 years and recommend them most highly.

    “I have used Makalu Adventure as my in-county agent for the last twenty years and recommend them most highly. The staff are knowledgeable, well trained and go that extra mile to make sure all is well. These are just some of the trips I have done with Makalu Adventure: Jiri to Everest Base Camp Trek - Phapulu to Everest Base Camp - Annapurna Base Camp - Annapurna Circuit with Tilicho Lake Trek Annapurna - Circuit of Dhaulagiri - Circuit of Manaslu - Rolwaling to Everest - Humla to Mt. Kailash - Everest ABC Tibet - Makalu Base Camp - Makalu Sherpani Col Pass Trek - Kangchenjunga Base Camp - Langtang Valley - Parchamo Peak - Dolpo - Mera Peak.
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