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Expedition PeaksNepal
Makalu Expedition (8,463m)
Mt. Makalu, like Annapurna and Kangchenjunga, is a mountaineers mountain. To reach the summit, and return safely to Base Camp, requires a high level of fitness and sound mountaineering skills.
Activity Level
Challenging
Duration
50 Days
Suitable For
16 to 70 years old
Best Season
Mar-May / Sep-Dec
Region / Country
Nepal
Group Size
On Request
Overview
Mt. Makalu, at 8,463m, is the 5th highest mountain in the world and has the appearance of a perfect pyramid. Like Annapurna and Kangchenjunga, Makalu is a more technical climb than Mt. Everest. A Makalu expedition is a considerable mountaineering challenge and requires an experienced team, with proven ability, and sound logistic back-up.
The expedition starts with a short but exciting flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar followed by a four-hour Jeep ride to the roadhead. The trek to Base Camp (BC) is something of an adventure with many ups and downs and rivers to cross. Not that long ago there were no lodges on the trail but that has now changed. There are lodges in many villages now, there is even a basic lodge at BC.
Having reached BC there will be time to rest, acclimatise and recharge your body battery before embarking on the climb. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) will be sited at 5,700m. Above ABC will be 4 more camps; Camp I on a glacial plateau at 6,150m, Camp II at 7,000m, Camp III at 7,300m and Camp IV on the North Ridge at 7,850m. The final push to the summit at 8,463m will take several hours! If you have chosen Full Expedition Service your experienced Sherpa guide will be with you every step of the way, doing his best to get you to the summit, and safely back to BC.
First Ascent of Mt. Makalu 8,463m
An American team led by Riley Keegan attempted to climb Mt. Makalu in the spring of 1954. This expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck and was termed as the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu.
However Mt. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy, members of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco Guido Magnone and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa then summitted the next day, followed by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte on the 17th May.
The French expedition climbed Makalu via the north face and northeast ridge, through the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard Mt. Makalu expedition route.
Makalu Expedition Departure Dates for 2026 & 2027
| Arrival Date | Price | Options | Season | Status |
| Wed, Sep 9 2026 | USD 17,500 per person | Booking Open | Autumn Season | Available |
| Sat, Dec 26, 2026 | USD 30,500 per person | Booking Open | Winter Season | Available |
| Tue, Apr 6 2027 | USD 14,600 per person | Booking Open | Spring Season | Available |
| Sat, Sep 11 2027 | USD 17,500 per person | Booking Open | Autumn Season | Available |
Makalu Expedition 2026 and 2027 Climbing Route
Other Mountaineering Expeditions like Makalu Expedition
Having successfully climbed Mt. Makalu, and been bitten by the Himalayan bug, you might like to consider one of our other expeditions such as: Manaslu Expedition, Baruntse Expedition, Ama Dablam Expedition, Cho Oyu Expedition, Lhotse South Face Expedition. Makalu Adventure has been organizing mountaineering and trekking expeditions for over 25 years; we can offer tailor-made packages to many peaks, based on available time and budget.