Makalu Adventure | Autumn 2026 Expedition
The Autumn 2026 Ama Dablam climbing season has come to an end, marking another memorable expedition for Makalu Adventure. This season, we welcomed six climbers from different parts of the world for an unforgettable journey to one of Nepal's most iconic mountains, Ama Dablam (6,812 m).
Five of our six clients successfully reached the summit, while the expedition also brought its share of challenges, unexpected situations, and remarkable teamwork in the mountains.
From an early summit on 14 October to the final summit push on 27 October, every stage of this expedition had its own story.
Frank's Early Summit: 14 October 2026
Frank from Germany was the first member of our expedition to arrive in the Khumbu region. He reached Lukla on 7 October 2026, well ahead of the other team members.
At that time, rope-fixing activities on Ama Dablam were still underway. Accompanied by his climbing Sherpa, Lhakpa Rinji Sherpa, Frank began his ascent and successfully reached the summit on 14 October 2026.
His early arrival, determination, and fast ascent made for an impressive start to the season.
Following their successful Ama Dablam climb, Frank and Lhakpa Rinji continued their mountaineering journey towards Mount Baruntse for their next expedition.
Lobuche Peak: Preparation and Acclimatization
The remaining five members departed Kathmandu for Lukla on 12 October 2026.
Among them, four climbers, Michael from Canada, Davie Scott from the United Kingdom, Klaas from the Netherlands, and Keith from the USA, first headed towards Lobuche Peak (6,119 m).
The plan was to use Lobuche Peak as a preparation climb and acclimatization opportunity before attempting the more technical Ama Dablam.
On 20 October 2026, three members successfully reached the summit of Lobuche Peak.
After completing their preparation climb, the team continued towards Ama Dablam, ready for the next stage of their expedition.
Ama Dablam Summit: 27 October 2026
Following their Lobuche Peak climb, the team proceeded towards Ama Dablam to begin their final preparations for the summit attempt.
On the morning of 27 October 2026, three members from this team successfully reached the summit of Ama Dablam.
Meanwhile, Toru from Japan took a different approach. He travelled directly towards Ama Dablam on 22 October 2026, accompanied by his climbing Sherpa, Ngima Dawa Sherpa.
The different arrival dates and climbing schedules brought together an international team with one common objective: reaching the summit of Ama Dablam.
A Challenging Situation During the Descent
Mountaineering is not only about reaching the summit. Sometimes, the most challenging moments come during the descent.
During the descent from Ama Dablam, Klaas from the Netherlands suffered from High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and became unconscious at Camp 2 during the night.
It was a critical situation that required immediate attention and teamwork.
His climbing Sherpa, Pastemba Sherpa, made an extraordinary effort by bringing additional oxygen bottles from Camp 2 within a few hours. Meanwhile, other expedition members and teams, including Paul and Xenia, helped look after Klaas and provided support during this difficult situation.
Their combined efforts were crucial in managing the emergency until further assistance arrived.
The following morning, Klaas was evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu for medical attention.
We would like to express our sincere appreciation to Pastemba Sherpa, Paul, Xenia, and everyone who contributed to the rescue and support efforts. Their dedication and quick response demonstrated the importance of teamwork and mutual support in high-altitude mountaineering.
The People Behind the Expedition
A successful expedition depends on much more than the climbers themselves. It requires an experienced Sherpa team, careful coordination, Base Camp management, transportation, logistics, and the continuous efforts of everyone involved.
We would like to recognize our climbing Sherpa team for their dedication and contribution throughout the expedition:
- Lhakpa Rinji Sherpa
- Ngima Dawa Sherpa
- Ongchhu Sherpa
- Pastemba Sherpa
- Ang Kami Sherpa
Nim Dorjee Sherpa
Special thanks to Uttam Lamsal for managing the operations at Ama Dablam Base Camp and coordinating the essential arrangements throughout the expedition.
We are equally grateful to all the porters who carried expedition loads along the trekking route and our Base Camp chef, who took care of the team's daily meals and kept everyone well-fed.
Every individual played an important role in making this expedition possible.
Back in Kathmandu: The Journey Continues
The expedition team has now returned safely to Kathmandu.
While some members are preparing for their international flights back home, others are taking the opportunity to explore more of Nepal. Some are heading to Chitwan for a jungle safari, while others are enjoying a few relaxing days in Kathmandu after their demanding days in the mountains.
For everyone involved, the Autumn 2026 expedition has been a journey filled with achievements, experiences, friendships, and memories that will last a lifetime.
Ama Dablam Expedition 2027: Bookings Open
Following the conclusion of our Autumn 2026 season, Makalu Adventure is now accepting bookings for Ama Dablam Spring and Autumn 2027.
Standing at 6,812 metres, Ama Dablam remains one of the most beautiful and sought-after technical climbing destinations in the Nepal Himalayas. Its exposed ridges, steep climbing sections, and spectacular Himalayan surroundings make it a remarkable objective for experienced mountaineers.
If you are planning your next Himalayan climbing adventure, our team is ready to help you organize your expedition.
Spring 2027 – Bookings Open
Autumn 2027 – Bookings Open
For expedition details, costs, departure dates, and bookings, contact us:
Makalu Adventure Pvt. Ltd.
Website: https://makaluadventure.com
Email: info@makalu-adventure.com
Instagram: @makaluadventure_
Makalu Adventure – Since 1998
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